Artwork and Photo Conversion (Photo to Chart)

Shown above: O&I Charts in progress and completed from the O&I Stitchers Gallery

This is a newer type of chart that you run into more and more (particularly at eBay) these days and I am asked, frequently, how I go about doing it. This is a huge question to try to answer and probably the most difficult one (I much prefer "Who are your favorite artists?") to answer/explain. To begin with you will need, at minimum, 5 things:

1. an original, non-copyrighted (or public domain) work to get your beginning image from. When I say non-copyrighted or public domain I do mean just that- the front of your favorite greeting card (while the artwork may be wonderful and *just* what you're looking for) or something similar probably doesn't qualify. However, if you *really* love that greeting card picture look on the back of the card for the artists name and do a Google search for them- for the most part, if the chart will be used only for yourself and won't be given away OR sold, contemporary artists are very open to someone's approach and it can't hurt to ask for permission can it? Many artists works have passed into the public domain a certain period of time after their deaths- a good rule of thumb for this is to check and see, have they been deceased in excess of (minimum) 75 years? If so their work is PROBABLY (but not always) in the public domain/out of copyright. Frequently, I will be surfing online and see an image site that proudly boasts ?00's of public domain images. That aren't. So when choosing images use caution and be responsible- show respect for the artists who create these amazing works by double-checking.

2. a good program to import and manipulate the size, shadings, colors etc of your image. You will do extensive work with this in cleaning up your image so this is a spot where it doesn't pay to try to skimp- MS Paint isn't going to work even if it *is* already on your computer. I highly recommend JASC's Paint Shop Pro myself.

3. a software conversion program- a note here: I am frequently asked which program do I use and the actual fact is that while I own 4 (and have demo'd a myriad of others) it doesn't matter which one I use. For the actual conversion the programs are all equal and I've yet to see one that stands above the rest- each has its' own quirks and pitfalls so be prepared to work with your chart extensively when the program has finished it's share of the job.

4. a LOT of time. Oh yes, there will be that very occasional image that you can pop in and back out of the program mentioned in number 3 and have a nice, stitchable chart but that is the exception rather than the rule. On the other hand, as my mom always said "anything worth doing is worth doing well" (usually there was dishwashing involved when she said this but I think it would apply here as well) so if you really want to do this- do! Just be prepared to invest the time to give yourself the best chart you can possibly stitch.

5. the "Eye"- I call it the "Eye" because I don't know what else to call it. When a chart is right, there is a certain balance to it, if you have the "Eye" you'll recognize when it all comes together and know your chart is completed. If you don't have it, well, it will never be quite right though you won't be able to put your finger on what's wrong. I know, I know, it probably doesn't make alot of sense but really it's just an inexplicable quality that is absolutely necessary.

Okay, so you have your image, you've invested in some good programs, you've cleared your free time for awhile and you're willing to invest enough of yourself to find out if you possess the mysterious "Eye", right? Right!

Begin with your image- now, I'm assuming, you've scanned it in at a decent resolution causing your computer to slow down massively and eventually burp out a really HUGE image into your image program (and at this point you are simultaneously scratching your head wondering what you will do with such a big picture while patting yourself on the back for getting the scanner to work when the kids/spouse/family dog aren't around to help you) which you will now reduce to, probably, 50% size and save to your hard drive as a .jpg or .bmp.

Now at this point there are a few differing techniques that I have seen mentioned as the "absolutes" of doing a conversion (don't believe it- there's no such thing as an absolute in doing a conversion) and you may wish to try one of these techniques yourself. First, there is the School of Image Size: in the SoIS the belief is held that the image should be sized (in pixels) to the size desired for the finished chart. So this would mean if you wanted a chart sized at 192 stitches horizontally you would resize your image to be 192 pixels across. Now the reasoning is that it would come out to 1 stitch per pixel and that if you are able to reduce your image to the desired finish size the conversion program will have an easier time converting. Second, there is the School of Colors: in the SoC it is believed that at this point you should reduce your image colors rather than size to the maximum number of colors you are willing to stitch it with and then save as a .bmp. Now while these 2 schools of thought differ quite a bit the reasoning is the same for both: to make life easier for the conversion program. For myself, I don't subscriber to either school- my goal is simply a "clean" image and I will leave it at the 50% size until I am satisfied that all of the little imperfections OF THE IMAGE are cleaned up. Frequently if the artist has given someone an odd or "blotchy" face I will manipulate the colors themselves to smooth things out a bit. Occasionally, I find I can bring forward far more details by lightening or darkening an image so even if it looks like it's good to go it really does pay to "play" with it for awhile and see what's waiting.

When I've gotten an image to the point that I'm ready to actually work on charting it I will put it through the conversion program. And then roll up my sleeves and go to work. First I'll have to decide, what is a reasonable number of colors for this artwork? Too many and it's not a stitchable chart, too few and the work won't be worth stitching. I have found through trial and error that most artworks can be converted to somewhere between 45 and 60 colors and still maintain the integrity of the original work. Now, for me, this is important- it would be too easy to cut off the wide expanse of background on, for example, Waterhouse's The Easy Chair but that would take away from the integrity and overall feel of the artwork so you will find that, at least on my charts, the first loyalty on a chart must be to the original artwork. Next, I'll need to go through looking for stray stitches- lone stitches of one color in the middle of nowhere that add nothing to the design itself. You have to be careful doing this though, it's entirely possible that that 2 stitches of salmon in the middle of the background is actually a figure's lips and you might have a hard time explaining to someone why you erased their mouth. If there is a background of one predominant color you may want to consider either removing that color entirely and simply stitching on a similarly colored fabric or adding a color a few shades off to add a bit of texture to that area. Some of my charts will have a large one color background with only a very few stitches of another color that are there entirely to add interest for the eye- why stitch an area using 3 skeins of black if the eye will simply slide past that area anyway once you've completed it and it's hanging on the wall?

It's important at this point in the process not to take anything for granted- most programs come with a variety of ways to view the chart in progress and I like to take advantage of all of them. I will reduce it to 25% and then enlarge to 400% and all points in between looking for any areas that jar the eye and don't balance properly. Once I've done that I will change between stitched view and color block and whatever else is available and start looking at it in different sizes all over again. When I'm finally satisfied with what I see at every angle I take an important step: I walk away from the chart for at least 15 minutes. If I'm still satisfied with it when I come back it's a happy day and if I'm not I'll continue working on it as above.

Occasionally, I will get a persnickety chart that I have worked on for several hours and I'm simply not happy with it- this is another point where it's time to walk away. It's to easy to be OVERLY critical of your work when you are looking at the small details- missing the forest for the trees- and when I come back to it I'm often amazed at this gorgeous chart I created (and beating myself over the head wondering how I could have been missing it!).

About this time, one of 2 things will happen. 1. You will realize you have >gasp< the "Eye"! Oh happy day! Everyone dance! OR 2. You will be tired and fed up with this nonsense and decide to purchase the work instead and why didn't you just do that to start with instead of wasting your time....

If #1- Congratulations! If #2- You are absolutely not alone- this is the end route for the majority of people but there are some pitfalls to avoid as well when shopping for a chart of this type:

First, realize that it won't be an absolutely accurate reproduction- which is why it's so important to see a representation of the digitally STITCHED (or at the very least a color block representation but the colors will usually be a hair darker in reality) work when you are shopping for this type of chart. Frequently you'll see a lovely image of the original work but what does this tell you about the conversion? Nothing. For a graphically vivid example of why this is so important take a peek at one of my very favorite Alma-Tadema paintings:

and now at the conversion using 50 colors (and with the full painting sized at 300x204 stitches):

See what I mean? It may make for a "prettier" website but you really need to be able to see what you're *actually* getting! If they have a stitchers gallery be sure and take a look there as well- you'll have a good idea how accurate the images are.

Second, if you think you may have seen that work that is charted at a clipart site or maybe (tongue in cheek) on a greeting card- ASK the designer. You don't want an illegal chart and you don't want to be breaking the law by accident. If the work is public domain, great- if it's not you will usually get a song and dance about it.

 

Third, check out the size and number of colors used- for example, at my site it is listed in the FAQ that the standard sized charts will use between 45 and 60 colors and if a chart uses more, such as what I call Challengers, the number of colors will be listed with the chart information. If you're not sure, email and ask- you will be investing alot of time to this project and if you're not comfortable using 85 colors you are perfectly right to ask about it before purchasing. Shown is my Challenger chart "Flora and the Zephyrs" based on the artwork of JW Waterhouse and using 121 colors as well as the original work.

Fourth, there are very few of these charts that use anything other than whole stitches, generally a chart will consist entirely of full stitches only with no backstitching depending on color changes to accomplish shading and movement but again, if you're unsure email and ask.

And a final point, whether you are creating a chart for yourself or purchasing a chart from a reputable site, don't fear the stitching! Knowledge is power and if you've created the chart yourself or asked all the questions just above you have that power. The charts may use more colors than you are used to (or not depending on your stitching tastes) but remember when you emailed and found out there is no tweeding, no fractionals, no specialty stitches, no backstitching? They lend themselves beautifully to all range of stitchers from the beginner to the advanced because as long as you are prepared to change colors frequently (and perhaps grid your fabric- volunteers to grid my fabric for me always gratefully accepted) and know ONE stitch comfortably well you CAN do this! All you need do is prepare your fabric and fibers (I like to bobbin mine and put them all together in one box with the symbol on one corner of the top of the bobbin and the color number on the other corner) fold your fabric in half twice to find the center and start stitching- Have fun!

Quin Stagman

Article originally appeared at www.jackandsusie.com